Thank you for reading this new issue of my newsletter ! This one is about my ride from Tbilisi in Georgia to Baku in Azerbaidjan and I hope you'll enjoy it !
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First, find some technical updates below, which I have kept short :
1- As usual, my blog home page is available under : http://www.top-depart.com/carnet-de-voyage-sv-bartrouer-rq-ACCUEIL-lang-fr.html
2- All the pictures since the Turkish border one month ago have safely arrived in France and would be shortly uploaded onto PixVillage ! Please wait a few more days !
3- My route up to Tbilisi is now visible on Google Earth. New points up to Baku would be updated soon. However, all points have already been compiled and commented on my blog. They are available at : http://www.top-depart.com/carnet-de-voyage-_-GPS_Log___2-sv-bartrouer-rq-page_libre-rubrique-205-lang-fr.html
4- You were many to tell me that there were not enough new pictures on the blog. Some new pictures of Azerbaidjan are now available. However, I recommend you to upload Pixvillage and browse Google Earth. Those two freewares will provide you with the best and most complete update available on my trip ! Photo uploads on this blog are longer than I can usually afford in rural Internet-cafe.
5- Some new stats are available under the statistics form : http://www.top-depart.com/carnet-de-voyage-_-Statistics-sv-bartrouer-rq-page_libre-rubrique-207-lang-fr.html
6- Do not hesitate to send your comments, reactions or possible technical difficulties to bartrouer@yahoo.fr or leave a public message on the "livre d'or" (= guest book), available on my blog at : http://www.top-depart.com/carnet-de-voyage-sv-bartrouer-rq-LIVRE_OR-lang-fr.html
At last ! I have reached Baku - capital city of Azerbaidjan - and the Western shores of the Caspian Sea in the evening of August 3th, after almost 4 months and 6641km on the roads !
My ride through Eastern Georgia led me to a wide valley where immense wineyards extended along the powerful walls of the Greater Caucasus. I mostly slept outoors despite some rainy nights. I camped once among the ruins of an ancient castle in the mounts surrounding Tbilisi and once within the walls of a fortified Georgian monastery some kilometers before the border.
When I left Tbilisi, I did not know if I would be only admitted in Azerbaidjan : some backpackers told me that the Azeri customs were extremely scrutaneous as soon as you would show some evidence of any trip to Armenia and Karabakh. But once again, I was lucky and it took me only a few minutes to cross this border and enter into this new beautiful country.
Landscapes continued to be as beautifully verdant as they were in Georgia, except that wineyards would now on be replaced by plantations of melon waters or cereal fields.
The Greater Caucasus was still astonishingly powerful as seen from the valley. Ancient forest and hazelnuts plantations cover the lower parts of the slopes of the mountains, which were sometimes showing white summits, whereas the hills opposite the valley were dry and yellow.
This valley was well cultivated and populated. It is so funny (or sometimes so embarassing) to be always in sight of someone! At least, when you think you are lost, this becomes very useful : Patiently wait for 5 minutes, even in the middle of nowhere, and you'll see someone coming to you and offer you his help !
My stops at shops or Internet cafe attracts tens of people. all so friendly and smiling ! Azerbaidjan is a really easy and pleasant country to travel in.
I visited a few villages and cities - even isolated old churches - but I mostly slept outdoors, away from city noises and curious visitors, with the exception of my second night in AZB, when I stayed in Iosef's house. There, I received a warm and spontaneous welcome, some excellent food, tea and a smooth bed when I well needed it!
After those verdant beginnings, I had to take leave of the Caucasus, while the dryer hills before the Caspian Sea appeared. Expect no more trees, and hardly thorny bushes upthere.
Leaving South the main road to Baku, I spent 24h in a semi-desertic area and the silence up there somehow scared me as much as it seduced me : What if I cannot take my bike out of there within the time I have some water to drink ??!
I was glad I easily and ... safely found my way out of there.
My arrival in Baku was made easy by Mikko, a Finnish Engineer met on the road 4 days before and who kindly invited me to "camp" in his appartment for one week. I am indeed planning to stay there for the next days, offering some well-deserved rest to my body and patiently waiting for the Iranian visa I applied for yesterday.
I might also get some books to read, which would be the first ones after 4 months of abstinence. I may also visit later the oil installations of the Baku peninsula as well as some pre-islamic temples and other museums around...
Some coming border-crossings are now looking trickier than before : In particular, Turkmenistan looks complicated and it is the key of all Central Asia... I would tell you more on this my next newsletters !
I wish you all a great and sunny summer. Tell me about your holidays when you are back in your offices !